2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C3 EP 1

The trip back out was still arduous, but we made much quicker time.  We passed several groups of through hikers heading in to the lakes we just left behind.  This valley was very busy.  

It amazed us how the temperatures were in the 90's during the day, yet we could still see dirty snow/ice up high on the ridges.  The snows must be very heavy in the winter.

 

Laboring back down towards the vehicle we were greeted by the sight of vehicles as far as the you could see!  We realized this trailhead served another geological feature that was popular with the hikers...and it was a 3-day Holiday weekend, but we did not expect this many guests!  Now there was no one second guessing our decision to regroup elsewhere.  There were about ten vehicles when we arrived, now there were upwards of fifty. 

We headed for the small gas station back in "town" where we could get a signal and download some additional maps, talk to some other hunters, get in some hot fresh pizza and pick up some beer.  The store sold two kinds of beer... an 18 pack of Pabst Blue Ribbon or a 36 pack of Pabst Blue Ribbon.  So we went with the 18 pack and headed to a campground to set up a base of operations to work from.  We were now car camping and could focus on finding elk.  We set up camp and Neil scoured the newly downloaded topo maps as we formed a plan. 

 

We spent that evening driving around scouting drainages in the area for a possible morning hunt, as well as cleaning up and doing a little hygiene and maintenance.  We focused on a promising looking area that only had one truck parked.  The drainage was down closer to the town and near a popular trout fishing stream.  We would explore that area tomorrow and reset the hunt.

 

In the dark of the morning we emerged refreshed and ready to hit the hunting hard again.  I would drop down the gully, cross the trout stream somehow, and circle around the Mountain headed for a bowl over the ridge.  Neil and Chris would go straight up the hill and head in opposing directions ultimately circling back to the road by noon.  Hopefully, we would see some sign.

I knew I had the short end of the stick as my side of the Mountain would be in the sun, but I was hopeful I could find some shady folds and that top bowl that may harbor unmolested elk.  I found my way across the creek on some slippery deadfall and made my way up across an interesting old canal that reminded me of a smaller version of the C&O canal and toe-path.  Maybe they used this to haul logs down the mountain? It was only a few inches deep now but I stopped to filter a drink as it was already getting hot. 

Making my way through a tangle of young aspen and old deadfall, the climb was slow and difficult.  I was trying to sneak as quiet as possible.  I kept hoping the trees would thin out or that I would cross some folds in the shade, but all was uniform as I crested the ridge.  I always make it a habit when I crest a ridge or a finger to be ready for a shot and go very slowly.  I was standing there taking in the sights and smells and feeling the cool breeze on my hot sweaty face, when I heard a twig snap!  Keeping frozen the animal stepped out 25 yards in front of me, no idea of my presence.  Yup, another deer.  Oh well, again I proved I was at least hunting effectively if I could just get into some elk.

The crest and bowl turned out no better than the climb up.  Sunny, hot, a tangle of deadfall and not much sign.  I had another encounter with 2 more deer within twenty-couple yards that I bumped from their beds, but hardly enough shade and comfort for elk.  I headed back down the mountain and refreshing myself at the truck decided to explore the opposing side of the valley in the shade as I waited for our meet up time.  I unloaded my daypack and only carried my lightweight camo top and quiver, pounded the rest of my PBR, and headed off onto the cool slope. 

A third of the way up I was greeted by a couple game trails crossing the slope, one of which had older elk poop and some tracks.  Above these I found several small grassy benches with well worn trails through them.  Now we were talking!  This area looked promising.  Running out of time, I dropped back to the truck and Neil and Chris both reported good looking sign, though neither saw any live elk.

Back at the camp for lunch we met up with Dave and Jeff who had come off the mountain and found the camp. 

We decided to let that promising area alone for a bit to cool off and explore other drainages that evening now that we could fan out with two vehicles.  Those hunts turned out uneventful with similar stories of no fresh sign and a few other hunters.  We made a plan to hit that promising area hard the next morning. All five of us would attack the hill from different directions.  We were optimistic we should get close to some elk, and we passed an enjoyable evening at camp telling stories and putting a couple PBR away each.  The stars out there are so clear, and we counted satellites going past until one by one we all crashed for the night.

2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C2 EP 3

The next morning found me again plodding across the cow meadow towards a smaller back drainage that entered just prior to the larger Y-Shaped one I hunted the first morning.  I wanted to stay well clear of the "loud-mouth" camp at the head of the valley and figured I would circle around after gaining altitude back in the direction of camp. 

The small ridge I had to cross to get to the drainage was very "elky" again.  Nice dark timber and trails from the meadow below.  Again, no fresh elk sign.  I stepped over a log and noticed something sticking out of the duff.  It was a carbon arrow broken near the tip, fletched with 4 small plastic veins looking like it sat there at least a year.  I sat wondering if it was a missed elk, or a shot at a grouse for dinner. 

Continuing on and over the ridge into the cool green drainage, I thought things looked very good.  I saw the grasses freshly clipped, many trails with fresh tracks and lots of poop.  The only issue was everything is black angus poop! Still I was wired and ready.  I nearly jumped out of my boots when a grouse busted up about 30 yards away.  No shot and it flew to the next unit.  

I skirted the drainage and continued to hunt upwards into the crease of the mountains. As I neared the top, I saw a large boulder that stuck out and reminded me of the famous scene where Fred Bear was crouched behind a similar perfectly placed boulder when he shot his large brown bear.   I decided to sneak up to it, and when I arrived I caught movement in my peripheral vision to the left!  My God!  There, not 20 yards away, was a cow's rear end with head down and feeding.  I had done it!  I followed the sign, made a great sneak, the wind was perfect, and there was the animal in perfect bow range completely unaware as I stood behind the boulder.  The one last issue however, was that this was not a cow elk, but a "moo cow".  ARRRRGH!

Continuing high above camp to the North on steep and then steeper terrain, I did hear a bugle around 10 am down near the meadow, but I was almost certain was another hunter.  Perhaps the two hunters we saw at the trail crest a few days before?  Anyway, I headed down in that direction anyway, and came no closer to any elk or sign.  

Back at camp I was discussing the lack of sign with Neil when Dave strolls into camp.  We had not seen him or Jeff for several days now, and he told us of their adventures hunting about 5 miles South of us.  They also had encounters with moose, but like me, only one sighting of fresh poop and no elk.  Lots of other hunter activity also. 

It was time to make a decision.  Either we would all have to head many miles down South and farther from the vehicle / trailhead, or go back down and find new territory.  Too far South and there were other access roads and trails into the area.

 

 

We opted to go down, burn half a day hiking out and have the rest of the week to try to find some elk.  Dave would go back and find Jeff, hunt one last evening, and join us at the campground down below. We were here to kill elk, but we needed to find them first. 

Neil broke out a few large marshmallows that we roasted for energy as we broke down camp.  They were a good lightweight treat.

Chris did a much better job of packing on the way down, lowering the center of gravity.  Still, I carried the stove just to give him an extra few pounds break.

2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C2 EP 2

 ...Frozen and at the ready my mind focused on the animal 30 yards to my front.  Like a cold wet rag slapped across my face I realized that I was looking at the rear end of a mulie doe.  Easing my string hand down I gently teased out the phone and snap a photo. 

A second deer busted from cover unseen from my left and I felt good about at least creeping within bow range of a few deer, but still uneasy about my prospects of an elk since I was headed off by the other hunters.  

Continuing to side hill, I find myself back at the entrance to the drainage where the steep slope ends in a large lake.  Feeling the increasing heat, and knowing I did not carry any water, I headed down towards the lake shore. Getting closer, I see smoke and hear voices from an unseen camp down at the lake head. Oh well, at least I'll go get a drink.  At waters edge I remove the burdens of my quiver and daypack. unzip the small pouch that carries my sawyer water filter and 16 oz bottle. repeating the filling and drinking twice, I sat back and enjoyed the views.  

 

Packing up, I had to side hill by the camp I had heard, and continue to hear.  The group was talking and cavorting so loudly I thought I was stumbling right on top of their camp despite the fact they were set up in a little copse of trees at the valley entrance.  Based on their dropping "F-bombs" constantly and being so loud, I decided to avoid them like the plague.  Anyway, I heard enough when one of them exclaimed, "I saw a spike and now I can die happy, I'm done".  

Putting some distance between us I pondered the information gathered on the morning hunt.  That Y-drainage was being hit hard on all sides and a non-shootable spike seemed to be the lone elk inhabitant. I could mark that area off. Now back to camp to see how the others fared.

When I got back to camp I was greeted by Chris sitting on his big waldrop seat and carrying a bucket of fresh water from the lake.  If my nose wasn't crusty and so damn dry from the combined forces of the air and altitude I probably would have blew snot across the meadow by the sight of him with his military "rec-specs" glasses.  He certainly can benefit from safety glasses! 

Anyway, the report from Chris (hunted to the East) and Neil (hunted to the North) was similar.  No fresh elk sign.  

We took the afternoon to rest, eat lunch, get water, and regroup.  The altitude was starting to take a toll on me in the form of a severe migraine.  I forced down water, had another cup of coffee and tried to take a short nap after setting up the tipi.  Since it was dry and the forecast was fair I didn't bother setting up the stove.

Rummaging through my pack I found my first aid kit but was dismayed to find out I no longer had any ibuprofen, advil, or tylenol in there.  Only hard core pain killers in case of broken bones or sprains. Desperate, I found my small flask of Bulleit bourbon I was reserving for a toast over a dead elk.  A few hits off that flask and I was feeling much better and ready for the evening hunt.

I decided on an area to explore near another lake, commanded by a interesting rock formation we dubbed "The Citadel" as it looked like a fortress on high.  

 

This hunt was also uneventful, except for a brief hike around this more popular lake.  There were numerous recently used hiker camps and I spent a little time casting a fly from my Tenkara rod to no avail.  I was tempted to take a little refreshing skinny dip, but suspected there were some hikers around.  Anyway, I was here to hunt, so I headed out and spent until dark scouting several of drainages below the lake.  

 

I was back at the camp with no sign of elk to report.  Chris and Neil both had encounters with moose, but neither saw any fresh elk sign either. Hmmm. Tomorrow is another day.

2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C2 EP 1

The hunt begins...

Waking before dawn, I hastily prepared boiling water for coffee with a little reserved for re-hydrating my cinnamon oatmeal, freeze dried apples, and powder milk concoction in a small mylar bag for breakfast.  The temperatures were not very cold yet and I knew the mid-day temps would be toasty, so after breakfast I shed my heavy wool top and donned my dad's old lightweight "Fred Bear" camo top.  This was just a little way to remember "Pop" and hopefully bring some luck. 

The three of us sped off in different directions and I headed about a mile down and across the valley toward the Y-Shaped drainage I thought was a great spot on my satellite scouting.  There were black cattle grazing in the meadow as I swiftly moved at a good pace crossing into some thick willows and entering the blow down mess that was the hillside leading into the drainage.  I took some time to let things settle down, took out a broadhead arrow, and affixed a small length of unwaxed dental floss to the upper loop of my bow string and slightly fraying the ends.  A large bright blue Stellar's jay sounded off and flew into a nearby pine as the musty smells of the morning filled my nostrils.  

The floss told me the wind was perfect for an uphill sneak, around and into the valley.  I started moving very slowly and deliberately.  The area was a dark tangle of deadfall.  I would climb or skirt a blow down, stop, look and listen for a few minutes, scan ahead for the best route and then repeat the sequence moving at a snail's pace.   The cool breeze was sinking down and I could hear the cows grazing in the meadow's edge below. 

Caching something out of place in the thick pine needles as I crept, I realized I was looking at the skeleton of an elk.  No head remained though the rest of the remains seemed relatively in the area of death.  Another lucky hunter perhaps?

 

An hour or so past as I drifted up the hillside and over into the drainage.  Down, in the cool willows I spotted a great sign. Fresh green elk poop!  It was not warm but definitely from the last 24 hours. 

 

Farther up I spotted a track.  Studying the trampled greenery smashed inside the print I also deduced this was VERY fresh.  things were looking up!

 

Then, I took another step and looked up.  There, looking at me in the edge of the willows, was the big dome of a 2 person Eureka tent - white with orange rain fly.  Crud!  Was this another hunter, or just a hiker close to the nearby lake?  Either way I cursed under my breath and took a bearing up the valley on the opposite side of the drainage to continue my sneak around.

The other side of the drainage was more open but steeper, which made the pace a little faster.  I headed up the right side of the "Y" and could view down into the opposing hillside as it was very steep. I took step and was listening when I heard a cow call in the creek.  Picking up my binos and looking that way I spot two compound bow toting hunters call again up into the drainage.  I watched the one guy turn and look right at me and despite being fairly in the open, he continued to walk up the valley.  I consulted the map on my phone and seeing that they were farther up than I and it was very steep on both sides, I resigned myself to circle back around hoping maybe they push one over the hill towards me. 

I continued to side hill around when I heard a noise that snapped me out of my thoughts of the other hunters.  I twig snapped and I saw a patch of tan buff through the pines...

2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C1 EP 3

 We trudged on up the trail, gaining in elevation and slope as we went.  Still, it was much gentler than the "Hill of Death".  

 

We started passing a few benches and "elky" looking areas.  Cool dark timber and grassy small parks as we headed ever upwards.  

 

The extra weight at this point was starting to take a toll on Chris.  His pace was slowing and he needed to flop down and rest every so often.  The younger Dave and Jeff (in their low 40s) started to distance out ahead of Chris and Neil.  Here Dave seems to exude his skepticism.

 

 

I decided I better stay back with my brother and Neil, and told the other two to go on ahead.  They said they would set up camp just over the crest and maybe come back to help after too much time.  So they headed off ahead and I encouraged the two as best I could as the final 1/3rd of the hike is the steepest. 

 

Now we were getting along on the steep parts about 15-20 steps before rest periods.  I offer some support and encouragement.  Things were going slowly and the shadows were growing. 

Here, nearing the crest, we could look down at the reservoir where we began, that is if you weren't staring down at your boots trying to regain your breath.  The start of the day was at zero feet above sea level and now we were approaching 10,500 or so. 

 

Chris and Neil were approaching exhaustion and there were only a few more steep switch backs before we crested the saddle.  

Getting to the top, I could see the bowl we would be hunting.  The shadows were growing and I was happy it looked like Chris and company would make it. 

I started looking for Jeff and Dave, but spotted a tipi tent and two other fellows setting up a cooking stove.  I chatted with them and they were also suffering from the elevation and climb up.  They were from Wisconsin and it was their first trip up here as well.  They mentioned, "the other two said they would be camping another 2 miles down the trail".  Uh oh!  Two miles?  I knew Chris would not make it that far even downhill after a rest. 

Backtracking to the crest I met them and informed them of the other campers and what was discussed.  After a rest they continued down into the valley, but I knew Chris was nearing the end.  We made it about 1/2 mile more when Chris said he needed to stop as we neared a small rise on the right hand side of the trail.  They made it to the crest of the rise and flopped down unpacking their gear. 

I knew I wanted to find a better camping spot so I circled around and located a great little spot out of the wind that already had a nice fire ring, stack of wood, and log to sit on.  I took a photo of it motivate them to move and it was only about 60 yards and another 200 to a nice lake. 

 

It was the end of a long day, so we decided to not set up the tipi tent and I just threw up a sylnylon tarp over my sleeping bag.  Chris had his military goretex bag cover.  Tomorrow morning was the season opener and I was looking forward to scouting out a nice Y-shaped drainage across the meadow.   I heated up a chicken Ramen and wondered about what adventures we would get into the following day.  Sleep came quickly and heavy, and it was eerily quiet up in the mountains.  There wasn't even a whisper of wind as I dozed off. 

 

2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C1 EP 2

As we unloaded our gear and started to assemble our packs I noticed that Chris was starting to struggle attaching gear to his already bloated pack.  I knew he was set on hauling up the large welded aluminum frame Waldrop pack seat I got him for Christmas last year.  It was heavy and I advised against it, but he was dead set on it.  I notice also he had the tenkara rod in a hard case zip tied to the frame of his pack, and the bulging vest he carried as a daypack.  I elicited Dave to help me convince him to rethink some of his accessories, and he came over and lifted the pack a few inches.  "Oh my God!", he exclaimed as he struggled to get it up off the ground.  Chris sheepishly relented and started to unpack a few items leaving his 45 caliber side arm, tenkara case, "extra" clothing and rain gear in the truck.  Still the Pack seat had to come along and he left his trekking poles instead.

 

I was still uneasy as he hoisted up his load and we set out towards the trail head.  The pack was severely top heavy and tall as he had his daypack/vest attached to the back of the chair which was attached high on the pack.

 

 

Neil looks over at Chris and the look his face says it all...you've got to be kidding!  

 

As we walked by the rows of vehicles I could not help but think of a scene from the movie Platoon in my head....."I think I've made a big mistake coming here".

 

As we lumbered onto the trail and headed across a high banked reservoir spreading out on personal paces, I snapped this photo showing a beam of light from the heavens seemingly illuminating Neil as he poled along.  Could this be a sign?  Was he destined for great elk success!?

As the trail soon became narrow and the grade started to increase, it became apparent that Chris would begin to suffer much on this hike in.  The big question would be would he make it without burying a cache of gear along the trail?  We had already joked that one of his nicknames was "the squirrel" because seemingly every year he needs to bury a pile of equipment for the walk out.  I tried to stifle a chuckle as a curious group of three through hikers past us on the trail when I could see the side eye at Chris's burden.  

Here is a view of the elevation we needed to get up on top of, as Chris and gang head toward adventure and glory.

 

2022 Colorado Elk Odyssey - C1 EP 1

Our story begins in the dark morning hours as the four hunters, including two compound bow and 3 stickbow shooters, meet at BWI airport en-route to Denver Colorado.  Two of the group, Dave and Jeff, started out as just a couple local Maryland guys who read my first DIY elk hunting adventure online and were inspired to do it themselves many years ago.  We eventually met them out in the elk woods and we have become close friends and hunting buds ever since. Neil, joined my brother and I the previous year in the San Juans.   His hunting mentor and friend Dave was started on the hunting journey by my brother Chris decades ago.  Now the five of us are all united at the gate after going through security.  

                         Here Jeff, Neil, and Dave wait for baggage at the Denver airport.

The area we are headed for was new to my brother and I, but Jeff and Dave had some good encounters there several years ago.  Everyone was excited and apprehensive to discover if the change in area would bring us more luck or less pressure then we had experienced the previous year. 

We would again hike into the hunting area carrying everything we would need for a week in the backcountry far from the vehicles. The hike in would sure be a little easier than the extremely steep 3 miles and 27 switch back "Hill of Death" just to reach the hunting plateau we were accustomed to in the past.  The trail would still be challenging with a few similarly steep sections near the top of the high saddle onto the area.  I was a little anxious to see if my stubborn brother Chris had remembered the lessons of the past and packed light.  After all, he was one year shy of his 60th birthday this year!  I was no younger either but I made darn sure to keep my total carry under 50 pounds. 

At the end of the flight we landed and secured two vehicles.  One was a full sized suburban and the other a 4 door ram pickup.  We headed to walmart to get some butane for the stoves and to buy Jeff and Dave's tags!  They wanted to wait until they got there, and of course the computer was down and we had to drive out of Denver to another walmart a hour down the highway.  

While we were waiting for the pair in the parking lot, my brother decides to change into his "field clothes".  Quite amusing the rest of us, and the walmart shoppers, he sported a wonderfully mismatched camo ensemble complete with a sleeveless woodland DBU shirt that looked like he had just cut them with a dull bent steak knife before he left.  All I could think of was Burt Reynolds in Deliverance crossed with Larry the Cable Guy!  

 

I was fairly sure the homeless guy at the gas station when we made our first stop for fuel was coming over to get him out of "his turf" until he reached the suburban and opened the door.

In any event, we made it to the trail head after several hours of driving and stuffing down junk food.  Yes, we were headed from sea level up to 11.5K in one day...again.  I was a little concerned when we parked along the road at the trail head when I counted about 10 vehicles lining both sides of the road.  I reassured myself though, it was a Friday before a long Holiday weekend and the trailhead also served a very popular hiking trail and vista.   We were in it for the long haul! This year seemed special.  We had 5 backs to haul meat and I felt our chances were good.  One thing was certain, we were going to hit it HARD....