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Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Hunting Chicken - "Chicken of the Woods" Wild Mushrooms Recipe

Originally published in Traditional Bowhunter Magazine:


Hunting Chicken - Oct/Nov 2018
 




Sliding through an opening in the underbrush with his delicate longbow and well-worn back quiver, the hunter eased into a clearing as he scanned his new surroundings with silent and determined intent.  The dense and humid air caused a trickle of sweat to roll down from his sideburns as the buzz of mosquitoes and gnats hovered annoyingly around his head and eyes. Out of the periphery of his vision, he caught a glimpse of something that triggered an immediate stimulus and endorphin rush.  Nestled along a log in the distance was not a deer, but there was an imminent harvest nonetheless.
Numerous seasoned woodsman know about spring Morel mushrooms, but there is another delicacy that is almost as easy to identify, widely available throughout late spring and into hunting season in most parts, and is a delicious wild forage of the gourmet caliber.  The fungi in question is Laetiporus Sulphureus, or known more commonly as “Chicken of the Woods”.


I came to know this mushroom quite by accident. While attending a large traditional shoot in May of 2012,  I posted a photo on a traditional archery forum of a big bright rosette of mushroom shelves I spotted growing near a log on the course that I thought was interesting.  I was amazed when a fellow brother of the bow asked if I had eaten it.


I was never one who was very fond of eating mushrooms in general, though I have recently become enamored with the reclusive spring morel, and now the Chicken of the woods.  There are several reasons for this recent affinity for these two forest treasures. The major factor is that both have a meaty flavor.  You probably guessed that chicken of the woods mushrooms tastes a bit like chicken to most.  The morel also having a meaty and earthy flavor.  


Another aspect that is also appealing to me is the ease in identification.  It is difficult to misidentify these for their potentially toxic relatives.  Chicken are shelf brackets that are characterized by a bright orange or sulphur-yellow colored body often with bright yellow tips.  There fleshy and rubbery bodies usually have yellowish pores on whitish undersides that have no gills.  They have an affinity to grow on Oak, though they can also be found on beach, chestnut, willow, yew and sometimes even coniferous tree species. Their bright overlapping fan shaped caps can be quite large, some brackets can weigh over 100 pounds, and visible from quite a distance.  


Some individuals have a sensitivity to this species, and fewer still can have a full out allergic reaction. It is wise to eat a very small amount your first time to see if you react.   Use caution if you already have a wood allergy or if the host tree is known to have irritating or toxic qualities like the yew tree.  The edible quality can also vary with the age of the organism, so don’t give up on them if your first culinary experiment was not fantastic.  You may have just had a bad batch. 
If you are lucky enough to come across a good fresh batch it will be very moist, brightly colored, and rubbery throughout.  The entire bracket is delicious.  If the growth is older, the thicker base will be woody and only the fringe will be choice.  It has been said that if only the edges are harvested, the brackets will continue to grow and allow multiple harvests in the same season.  


Once collected, they can be immediately soaked in salt water to remove any insects and prepared.  To preserve them, dehydration does not work well.  The thick bodies do not re-hydrate very well.  I prefer to freeze them by layering between waxed paper on a sheet pan until they are solid.  This keeps them from sticking together.  I’ll place the frozen brackets in a bag and then remove a few at a time for meals while keeping the rest frozen.  They will last in excess of a year this way and longer if you vacuum seal.    


Once soaked and rinsed to remove any insects or debris, you can cook them like chicken breast.  I have had success breading and frying, sautéing in butter with onions (maybe with perogies), adding to stews, and of course my favorite authentic German Jaeger Schnitzel (hunters Schnitzel; recipe below).  





  
I have come to enjoy and take great satisfaction in harvesting some of the many offerings that the woods provide.  Many wild foods such as berries, fruits, and mushrooms are available during the times when we are in the field hunting.  Keeping an eye out for these morsels can add a  bit of excitement to any hunt, and you might feel good at being a little bit more self-sufficient. 

Jaeger Schnitzel
Ingredients:
½ pound of Venison chops (5 or 6 x 1 inch backstrap chops)
1 cup of sliced Chicken of the woods mushroom
1/3 cup sliced morel mushrooms
1 cup of all-purpose flour
1 cup of Italian breadcrumbs
1/4 teaspoon of salt
¼ teaspoon of black pepper
3 tablespoons of olive oil
3 tablespoons of butter
½ a sweet onion or one large shallot
¼ cup of red wine
½ cup of beef stock or broth
2 eggs
¼ cup of heavy cream (or whole milk)

Place your venison cutlets between 2 layers of cling wrap (to keep things from splattering) and pound each side with a meat hammer to tenderize.



Dredge the pounded cutlets in a plate of flour salt and pepper, then coat in a bowl with the well beaten eggs.  Transfer the cutlets then to a plate with the Italian breadcrumbs and thoroughly coat. Reserve some of the flour for thickening later. 

Heat a large heavy cast iron skillet with the olive oil and butter over medium -high heat. In batches, cook venison 3-4 minutes, or until browned, turning once. Remove the venison from pan; set aside and keep warm.  

Using the same pan used for the cutlets, add the thinly sliced onion or shallot, and the mushrooms and sauté 3-4 minutes adding additional butter if necessary and salt and pepper, until tender. 
Add the wine and beef stock and bring to a boil for several minutes. 
Add the heavy cream or milk and about a teaspoon of flour to thicken sauce to the consistency of gravy while constantly stirring.

To serve pour the mushroom sauce over the cutlets and enjoy with an accompaniment of traditional German Spaetzle, butter noodles, or potato of your choice.  

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